OBSERVATIONS & OTHER ACCIDENTS

After the whirlwind of Fashion Week across New York, London, Milan and Paris, I found myself stepping back — not into the shows themselves, but into the streets that surround them. From afar, patterns emerge: gestures, rhythms, choices that speak more quietly than any runway spectacle. This season, what caught my attention was less the drama of the catwalk and more the subtle eloquence of those outside it — the understated elegance of denim, the ease of a well-curated outfit, the quiet confidence that doesn’t need to announce itself.

Another Fashion Season draws to a close. If we sum up the four major capitals — New York, London, Milan and Paris — we’re talking about roughly 300 to 400 shows in total. That includes prêt-à-porter runway presentations, by-appointment showings, official exhibitions and associated events recognised by the British Fashion Council, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Off-calendar happenings, independent showrooms and alternative formats easily push those numbers higher — sometimes by another 20 to 40 per cent.

It’s been a season charged with anticipation. With the ongoing game of musical chairs among creative directors — some of our favourite names stepping into new houses — there’s been plenty to watch. But this isn’t a review, nor a collection of verdicts. It’s simply a pause for observation — a moment to take stock of what happens around the shows rather than within them. Because fashion, as it unfolds in real time, extends far beyond the catwalk.

Writing sharp reviews, or even offering a fair overview, isn’t something that happens overnight. Seeing a show in person — not just through what the Internet chooses to show us — is crucial. Everything matters: the materials (which are vital, needless to say), the atmosphere, and the energy that a collection conveys live. Today, everyone online seems to be a critic, which often feels unfair to creative directors. Fashion isn’t written that way.

Fashion isn’t written by clicks and likes; it unfolds in the atmosphere, the materials, the energy that only live moments can convey.

I didn’t attend the shows, so I can’t pretend to offer that kind of critique. What I can do, however, is notice the things that emerge clearly from afar — the visual rhythms that play out in the endless stream of images shared by Vogue and other publications, the recurring gestures that seem to reveal a collective mood.

One thing that stood out was how much denim appeared in the streets surrounding the shows. Not on the runway (where it inevitably turns up), but off it. There was something refreshing about that. Even from afar, it was impossible not to notice. For years, street style — which at one point started stealing attention from the actual shows — has carried a somewhat circus-like air. The more extravagant, the more “fashion” someone appeared to be. Yet this time, at least through the lenses of photographers and editors, there seemed to be a quieter mood. Less costume, more ease.

I’ve always had a rather sober style. I’ve always believed that, in the absence of truly good pieces — well cut, well made, with that effortless refinement — indulging in fantasy was never a good idea. Even with access to some of the best designs from major houses, I’d still choose simplicity.

It’s striking how many celebrities opted for jeans this season. Many of these jeans were from luxury houses, worn as part of fully curated looks — meaning the rest of the outfit was also designer and carefully coordinated. And that does make a difference.

Yet this comes as no surprise to anyone familiar with the industry: editors, creative directors, designers, stylists and models have long favoured discreet, understated looks. This season, that quiet elegance extended beyond the backstage and into the streets, creating a sense of lived-in, effortless style. Perhaps it’s fatigue from years of overexposure — or maybe a subtle shift toward authenticity. Either way, there’s a certain elegance in restraint.

A good pair of jeans — the right shade, the right fit — can feel like a palette cleanser after months of excess. Worn with a crisp shirt or a soft jumper, it holds a quiet confidence that doesn’t need to shout to be seen.

This seems to point toward where fashion is heading: a quieter kind of cool. Away from the constant noise of novelty, back to the tactile, the familiar, the human. In the end, what we choose to wear off the shows may say more about where fashion is going than any runway ever could.