OBSERVATIONS & OTHER ACCIDENTS

Skincare, influencers and the anxiety of doing too much.

For years, skincare was an intimate act. Quiet. Personal.
Today, it has become a performance.

A carefully choreographed ritual, broken down into numbered steps, housed in aesthetically flawless bottles and presented as essential for anyone who wants healthy — or, more truthfully, socially acceptable — skin.

Skin is never clean enough, hydrated enough, treated enough. There is always one more serum, one more acid, one more step we are missing.

Social media has taught us that skin is never quite enough. And so a new form of aesthetic anxiety was born: the feeling that we are never doing enough — and never starting early enough.

In a text I wrote for Vogue, Wisdom Issue (September 2025), I questioned this collective obsession with anticipating time. In a culture where “50 is the new 40” and “40 is the new 30”, the question becomes inevitable: what, then, is 20 supposed to be? What, 10?

We are witnessing a generation that, while still young, is trying to remain young too soon — resorting to aesthetic procedures and skincare rituals that are neither necessary nor appropriate for their age.

The young face is still maturing. Facial expression is vital to identity, emotional communication, and self-esteem.

As Margarida Cortez, an aesthetics specialist, explained for Vogue, The Kitsch Issue (January 2024), the women who seek her work are not looking for visible transformation, but for natural, gradual treatments — often guided by a clear fear of looking artificial. These are mostly women over 30 aiming to restore subtle youthfulness, rather than chasing extremes.

Medical specialists confirm that the real concern lies not in care itself, but in timing. Ana Silva Guerra, Specialist in Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery and Clinical Director of her eponymous clinic in Lisbon, explained in Vogue, Wisdom Issue (September 2025) that millennials developed a slower, more cautious relationship with ageing. Younger generations, however, shaped by digital comparison and instant imagery, often seek fast results and early interventions, with little patience for the body’s natural rhythms.

“I see 20-year-old girls undergoing procedures that would be unthinkable at that age,” she noted. The risk is not merely aesthetic but structural: the young face is still maturing. Facial expression is vital to identity, emotional communication, and self-esteem. Intervening too early can interfere with that development, leading over time to stiffness, loss of spontaneity — and paradoxically, a more aged appearance.”

Intervening too early can interfere with that development, leading over time to stiffness, loss of spontaneity — and paradoxically, a more aged appearance.

Ana Silva Guerra, Specialist in Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery and Clinical Director of her eponymous clinic in Lisbon

Beatriz Leite da Cunha, an aesthetic medicine specialist in Porto, confirmed that constant exposure to one’s own image, filtered and compared in real time, amplifies the desire for anti-ageing solutions among very young patients. Even well-intentioned products and treatments can backfire if applied without consideration for age, skin type, or timing.

This is where a measured, mindful routine becomes essential. Skincare is most effective when tailored to actual needs, not trends, and when used with patience and purpose. As Silva Guerra emphasised, young skin does not require a robust routine: daily sun protection, gentle cleansing, hydration, and consistency are far more important than any trendy serum. Damaged or inflamed skin, after all, ages faster.

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A Thoughtful Skincare & Makeup Routine

Below is an outline of the products I personally use, selectively according to my skin’s needs and phases, not as a rigid daily protocol. This is a living routine — some days only cleansing and hydration, other days adding treatment, balm, or makeup.

Cleanse / Cleanser

• Bioderma Sensibio Gel Moussant — Gentle, soap-free, pH balanced; cleanses without stripping, ideal for sensitive skin.
• La Roche‑Posay Toleriane Gel Espuma — Calming, fragrance-free foam that removes impurities while respecting the skin’s barrier.
• Avène Cleanance Gel — Purifying yet non-drying, suited to sensitive, oil-prone complexions.
• Aloe Vera Cleanser (bought it at Laconicum, Madrid) — Lightweight and soothing, perfect for everyday use.

Makeup Removal / Pre-Cleanse

• The Inkey List Balsam Cleanser — Melts away makeup and SPF before gel cleansing, leaving skin soft and prepped without tugging.

Hydration / Serum

• The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 — Replenishes moisture and enhances suppleness.

Treatment / Retinol (As Appropriate)

• La Roche‑Posay Redermic R Anti‑Ageing Concentrate — Retinol treatment used intentionally and sparingly, respecting the skin’s natural rhythms.
• Silk Slumber Night Treatment (bought it at Laconicum, Madrid)— A gentler night-time renewal option.

Moisturise / Creams & Balms

• Shiseido Essential Energy Hydrating Cream — Supports hydration and radiance.
• Omega+ Moisturising Cream — Rich, nourishing option for barrier support.
• La Roche‑Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 — Calms and fortifies sensitised areas, especially post-retinol.

Sun Protection (Daily)

• Bioderma Photoderm X-Defense SPF50 — Lightweight, broad-spectrum protection: the single most effective anti-ageing step.

Natural Finish Bases / Makeup

• Dior Forever Hydra Nude Foundation — Hydrating, natural coverage, comfortable for long wear.
• L’Oréal Accord Parfait Nude Serum — Light, repulping tinted serum for a “skin-first” look.

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This is not a checklist. I choose products according to my skin’s needs and phases — sometimes just cleanse and hydrate, other times add treatment or makeup. The key is attention, not excess.

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Skincare, at its best, is a dialogue — with your skin, your time, your priorities. It is not about perfection, nor about copying an influencer’s 12-step routine. It is about listening: understanding what your skin needs today, what it will need tomorrow, and what is purely optional.

“The key is attention, not excess.”

We live in a world obsessed with speed, visibility, and constant comparison. But the most effective routines are often the simplest: cleanse gently, treat thoughtfully, hydrate consistently, protect daily, and choose makeup that enhances, rather than masks. The rest is noise.

And perhaps the most radical act of all — in a culture where doing more is equated with caring more — is to do only what is necessary, with intention and care. To accept that skincare, like ageing, unfolds in its own time, and that patience, observation, and subtlety often outperform the latest trend or viral serum.

In other words, a mindful routine is less about products, and more about presence: the daily, quiet attention you give to yourself — without pressure, without comparison, without performance. That is where true skin wellness lives.