OBSERVATIONS & OTHER ACCIDENTS

I recently reconnected with Lilly Sarti, having first worked with her months earlier on a piece I wrote for Vogue Portugal. Our renewed conversation, sparked by São Paulo Fashion Week, gave me the chance to explore her world and her FW26 collection, kosmo.polítes, with Asian inspiration, particularly from Japan. We talked about her designs, Brazilian fashion, and the close collaboration with her sister, revealing the creativity, care, and personal passion behind the brand, as well as Lilly’s curiosity for life beyond Brazil.

The digital world has its perks — it’s all about knowing how to make the most of it. Despite its many “buts”, the chance to discover what lies beyond our own geography is one of its greatest strengths. As a fashion journalist (if we can still claim that title, at least here in Portugal), my curiosity beyond borders is naturally sharpened. I always end up mixing my personal quirks with my profession.

Having lived in Brazil — and loving so much about the country: its music, its unique musicians, bossa nova, samba, the joie de vivre, and even the accent — I can’t accept the Orthographic Agreement (every jack to his trade), but that doesn’t stop me from finding spoken Brazilian Portuguese absolutely beautiful.

It was, therefore, somewhere between this personal fascination and a nudge from the algorithm that I discovered Lilly Sarti, the eponymous brand created by two sisters, Lilly and Renata, full of style and impeccable taste. Lilly confirms: “I think we became friends online! And I clearly remember the piece you did for Vogue Portugal,” for which I collaborated with.

“I think we became friends online! And I clearly remember the piece you did for Vogue Portugal“

Lilly Sarti, the brand, was born 19 years ago. “I made clothes for myself. And very quickly, [my creations] became something my friends desired,” she recalls. With her sister, Renata Sarti, she created the brand name and took care of all the bureaucracy. Lilly is the creative director, while Renata, her sister, manages the administrative and business side of the company. She says her sister is her best friend: “I can honestly say that without people you trust, a business wouldn’t move forward.” The motto for creating, she says, has always been “make it happen.” Their mother taught them this — and for both, it’s the starting point for making anything succeed.

Lilly Sarti

I can honestly say that without people you trust, a business wouldn’t move forward.

On 15 October, in the middle of São Paulo Fashion Week, Lilly Sarti presented her proposals for the upcoming Brazilian winter season. Titled kosmo.polítes, the FW26 collection draws inspiration from the Greek concept of kosmopolítes — the citizen of the world, part of a universal community. From this premise comes a reflection on non-fragmentation: naming, classifying, and separating are natural gestures, but they are limiting. The collection invites a suspension of labels and an embrace of wholeness, recognising women as multiple, mutable, and complete.

With Asian inspiration, particularly from Japan, Lilly Sarti explores proportions, volumes, and constructions influenced by Japonism — not just in shapes, but also in how the creations are worn.

The brand’s classic constructions merge with new volumes; leather is reinterpreted in unexpected ways; 100% Capricorn cotton denim takes on an experimental character; and lightweight fabrics contrast with velvet, knits, and natural fibres, sustaining the creative and artisanal gesture.

The palette reveals a harmony of greens, warm earthy tones, and sophisticated checks, while the accessories balance strength and delicacy: boots, clogs, leather sandals and trainers; scarves and export-quality leather bags; metal and goat leather belts; and body jewellery that dissolves the boundaries between garment and ornament. All trimmings are developed in-house, reaffirming the brand’s artisanal mastery.

At the heart of the concept lies the Board / Complementary Opposite — a play of contrasts exploring the duality of Yin and Yang, Sexy and Cool, Tight and Loose. A collection that celebrates the balance of opposites and the freedom to be plural.

“Fashion in Brazil is challenging, but the most crucial aspects come from the domestic market itself. Many stylists still look to international brands for their clients or for editorial features. Not all, of course, but it’s a shame when the national scene isn’t valued.”

“SPFW is a great stage to present our creations, and I’m happy to have been part of it for so many years!”, says Lilly. And it really shows when you watch one of her shows: a genuine pride in being part of something Brazilian, original, and profoundly modern — in its vision, execution, and energy.

Lilly Sarti

SPFW is a great stage to present our creations, and I’m happy to have been part of it for so many years.

After talking about the collection and the SPFW experience, our conversation naturally turned more personal. Lilly told me how much she loves Brazil, but also how curious she is about other places. “I have been to Portugal, but only briefly — just Lisbon and Comporta,” she said, adding that she hopes I will visit the country in person soon.

I must admit, I also have a strong desire to go to São Paulo and meet Lilly, both the person and the brand, in person.

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Lilly Sarti
Iguatemi, 3rd Floor — Flagship Bela Cintra 220
São Paulo
Brazil

New website coming soon: lillysarti.com.br

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